Southern cheese straws.

My Grandmother Dorothy passed away in 2017, and she remains one my biggest inspirations. I often feel her presence standing over my shoulder as I’m working in my kitchen or garden. I like to think she approves of what I’m doing. (Mostly, anyway; she could be fairly particular.)


This recipe for Southern cheese straws is one of her favorites, and it occupies a place of honor in the cookbook she published in 1996. She and my mom — and now I — have made it a thousand times. The cheese straws are strongly cheddary, pretty, crisp and perfect with a glass of wine. Southern hostesses would call these “pickups” — cocktail snacks that you pick up and eat with your fingers.

While I’m not a fan with specialty kitchen gadgets, the classic cookie press is a must in my kitchen. I have a vintage Mirro canister-style cookie press; I quite prefer its twist-and-screw action to the trigger style of modern cookie presses. But no matter what type you have, it’s worth breaking out for this recipe.

One practical note: These cheese straws are super quick and easy (and fun!) to make, and they’re even easier on a warm summer day. I once made a batch right before Christmas, and my cool kitchen made the dough stiff enough that it was kind of a pain to work through the press. Use room temperature ingredients, and make sure the dough is nice and soft before you scoop it into the press.

Another practical note: Southern cheese straws freeze beautifully, so you can make a batch and place them in an airtight container and freeze for up to 6 months. Let them come to room temperature before serving.

southern-style cheese straws

makes about 90

1 pound sharp cheddar cheese (see Note), at room temperature
1 stick unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups minus 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour
1/4 tsp. Tabasco, or to taste
Pinch of salt

In a food processor, use the large shredding blade to shred the cheese; transfer to a bowl. Replace the shredding blade with the metal mixing blade in the food processor; add cheese and remaining ingredients. Pulse until a smooth, even dough comes together and rolls around the sides of the bowl.

Preheat oven to 350° and take out 2 large (ungreased) baking sheets. Working in batches, transfer the dough to a cookie press fitted with the star disc. Press the dough out into 4-inch to 5-inch lengths, using the tip of a paring knife to separate it from the press. Repeat, placing the straws fairly close together on the baking sheets (they won't spread). Bake the straws for 12–15 minutes, until set and just slightly golden around the edges. Remove from oven and let cool slightly. Reduce oven temperature to 200° and return baking sheets to oven. Bake for 20 minutes (this makes the straws nicely crispy). Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Note: About the cheese ... do not, under any circumstances, use packaged shredded cheese here (or, you know, ever). Packaged shreds are coated with an anti-caking agent so the cheese doesn't stick together, which totally trainwrecks this recipe. Trust me: I've tried. Don't bother with fancy imported cheddar, either; good ol' Cracker Barrel Extra Sharp was Grandma's go-to for this recipe. Buy two 8-ounce blocks and shred it yourself.

4 thoughts on “Southern cheese straws.

  1. If you don’t have a cookie press can you place by spoonful and press down like a wafer?