Penne with asparagus and mushrooms.

Here in Southwest Ohio, asparagus season is in full swing, about 3 weeks early by my estimation. And I’m planning to eat it weekly until either a) I’m sick of it, or b) it’s gone.

Early in the season, I’ve been in the mood to toss asparagus with pasta in some combination or another; soon, I’ll move on to enjoying this springiest of vegetables in a simpler form: grilled or roasted, with a spritz of lemon juice.

I think of mushrooms as a spring ingredient, too, even though they’re available year-round. Perhaps it’s because morels come into the local market right about now (at 70 bucks a pound—yikes!). Still, mushrooms and asparagus seemed a nice combination, and thus emerged this recipe for penne with asparagus, mushrooms and bacon.

penne with asparagus and mushrooms
(serves 2 generously)

1 rounded cup uncooked penne (whole-wheat would be nice here)
1 bunch fresh asparagus, tough ends snapped off, spears cut into 1-inch lengths
8 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced
1 slice bacon, coarsely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tbsp. heavy cream
2 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
freshly grated Parmesan cheese, for serving

In a sauté pan, cook bacon until just beginning to crisp; remove to a paper towel-lined plate to drain. Return pan to medium heat and add sliced mushrooms to the bit of bacon grease in the pan. Sauté until golden brown, about 6 to 7 minutes; add garlic and sauté 1 minute. Add cream and stir until it thickens slightly. Turn off heat.

Bring a pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add pasta and cook according to package directions, adding asparagus to the pot 3 minutes before the pasta is done. Drain pasta and asparagus, reserving about 1/2 cup of cooking liquid. Return to pot; add mushroom sauce and stir, adding a bit of cooking liquid if necessary to create a nice sauce. Add parsley. Serve topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

related recipe

tortellini with asparagus and goat cheese

Posted in Dinner, Farmers' market, Recipes | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Grilled 3-cheese and arugula sandwich.

People, I gotta tell you: We have a lot of cheese around here. I say this as an observation and not a complaint … but my word, we have in the fridge more cheese than two people should rightly have in the fridge.

This is thanks to a very generous birthday gift from my grandmother, a lovely box from The Cheese Shop in Indianapolis: hunks, at least a half-pound each, of cheddar, swiss, gouda, gruyere, leerdammer and grinzing, plus a 16-ounce tub of herb cream cheese. Oh, and a summer sausage. Which reminds me of a South Park episode …

It’s going moldy faster than we can use it up (not a problem: we’ll just trim away the weird parts), and so we’re getting creative. Stay tuned for a post soon about my experimentation with mac and cheese.

Rob, the resident grilled cheese expert, concocted this magnificent sandwich to use three—three!—kinds of cheese. You can use any kind of cheese you like, but there are three keys to this grilled cheese sandwich: 1) arugula, a delicious, peppery addition [which also allows you the fantasy that this sandwich is in some teeny way healthy]; 2) the herbed cream cheese, which sort of glues the arugula between the bread and creates this wonderfully oozy, highly flavored sandwich, and 3) good sourdough bread. This is what we call a DFS: a damn fine sandwich.

grilled 3-cheese and arugula sandwich
(for each sandwich)

two kinds of cheese, sliced thinly—cheddar, swiss, provolone, smoked cheddar, monterey jack, etc.
2 tsp. herbed cream cheese or Boursin
2 slices good bakery sourdough bread
handful of fresh arugula
fresh ground pepper

Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium high heat. For each sandwich, spritz the outside of each bread slice lightly with cooking spray. Layer sliced cheese on one slice of bread; spread herbed cream cheese on the other slice, top with arugula and season with fresh ground pepper. Place the bread with the sliced cheese on the griddle and top with the other half of the sandwich; press firmly with a spatula. Grill sandwiches until deep golden brown on each side, about 5–6 minutes per side.

Posted in Dinner, Meatless Monday, Recipes, Sandwiches | Tagged , , , | 6 Comments

New source for garden goodies.

If you, like me, mourn the loss of Smith & Hawken (and yes, I know the brand is still alive at Target), then you’ll want to check out Agrarian, the new retail line from the folks at Williams-Sonoma. It’s all about that farm-to-table connection, assuming the ‘farm’ in the equation happens to be your own back yard.

Well-designed garden tools, seeds and plants, raised beds and compost, equipment for keeping bees and chickens … much of what urban and suburban “farmers” need to grow and preserve their own food is included in this collection. Plus, they sell Weck jars [hooray!!!] and kits for making homemade cheese and growing sprouts. (For the former, though, I’d rather try SoupAddict’s recipe for homemade herb ricotta.)

The aesthetic is lovely and the assortment is completely thought through, as you’d expect from Williams-Sonoma. While I think it’s a little silly to paint growing your own food with the “lifestyle” brush, I’m all for anything that introduces more people to the joys of harvesting that first head of lettuce or sun-kissed tomato from their own garden. That, and the products are covetable. [Hide your wallet.]

Posted in Food 4 thought, Gardening | Tagged , , , , | Leave a comment

Arugula salad with cranberries and pistachios.

In springtime, I can’t get enough of arugula. I grow it in my backyard garden (and try to overwinter a crop in my cold frame). I buy it at the first farmers’ markets of the season. I toss arugula with cooked pasta. I season it with olive oil and lemon juice and top a huge pile of arugula with slices of perfectly grilled steak.

Arugula has so much peppery flavor that it doesn’t take much adulteration. I’m loving this  colorful and flavorful arugula salad that I was inspired to make after having dinner recently at Buz, a new restaurant in Cincinnati.

arugula salad with cranberries and pistachios
(serves 2)

several large handfuls of fresh spring arugula, washed and spun dry
2 Tbsp. dried cranberries
2 Tbsp. roasted unsalted shelled pistachios

2 tsp. chopped shallot
1/2 tsp. Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp. white wine vinegar
3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground pepper

Make the dressing: Combine mustard and vinegar in a small lidded jar; add a pinch of salt. Close the jar and shake to combine. Add shallot, olive oil and a pinch of ground pepper. Shake again to combine. Let dressing sit for 20 minutes or so for the shallot to infuse its flavor, then spoon or strain out the shallot and discard.

Toss the arugula with dressing to taste, and then top with pistachios, cranberries and fresh cracked pepper.

related recipes

better than store-bought vinaigrette
best blue-cheese dressing 

Posted in Dinner, Farmers' market, Salads | Tagged , , , , | 1 Comment

Pasta with spring vegetables.

Squeeeee! I found the first asparagus of the season at Findlay Market last weekend (from Thistlehair Farm) and was beyond excited.

It’s amazing, isn’t it? We’ve muddled through winter eating potatoes and squash and hearty stews and plain salads … and now, magically (and with a big hand from our unseasonably warm spring) we have a bounty of local goodies coming on with gusto. Lettuce, kale, chard, arugula. Baby spring onions. And now, at long last, asparagus. Can strawberries … and then tomatoes … and then corn be far behind? Surely not.

[An aside, on a seasonal note: We hadn't really eaten fresh tomatoes all winter, except for our mid-March trip to Florida where we bought farm-fresh local tomatoes. But a nice-looking pint container of organic cherry tomatoes suckered me—suckered!—into purchasing them at the grocery this week. What a disappointment. Ptooey.]

I waffled about what to do with that first bunch of asparagus [after all, there will be many more to come this season] and decided on a spring-y pasta dish, with peas and a light touch of goat cheese. It absolutely tasted like spring—or, more to the point, like the end of winter.

tortellini with spring vegetables
(makes 2 generous servings, with lunch-able leftovers)

1 package, about 8 ounces, fresh (refrigerated or frozen) cheese-filled tortellini
1 bunch asparagus
1 cup fresh or frozen green peas
2 ounces fresh goat cheese
2 Tbsp. toasted pine nuts
1 Tbsp. olive oil
2 Tbsp. slivered fresh basil
salt and pepper

Snap the tough ends off the asparagus and trim spears into 1-inch lengths. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and season generously with a couple big pinches of salt (the water should taste salty like the ocean). Add pasta, asparagus and peas to water; cook 3 minutes, until pasta is done and asparagus is crisp-tender. (If using dried pasta, or if the package indicates a longer cooking time, then add the vegetables 3 minutes before pasta is done.) Drain pasta and vegetables, reserving about 1/4 cup of cooking liquid. Return pasta and vegetables to your pot, then add crumbled goat cheese, pine nuts, olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Add enough cooking water if needed to make a creamy sauce. Serve topped with fresh slivered basil.

related recipes

pasta with sausage, peas and mascarpone
cheesy pasta with arugula and mushrooms

Posted in Dinner, Eating local, Farmers' market, Meatless Monday, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 3 Comments

Stocking the pantry.

My recent springtime chore of cleaning out the fridge and de-cluttering (and de-expired-food-ifying) the pantry prompted me to give some good thought to the essential ingredients that I tend to keep on hand, constantly. The kinds of ingredients that could come together in some combination to form a decent dinner. The things I pack when I’m provisioning for a road-trip vacation. The essentials I’d stockpile if I were a doomsday prepper. The items I’d recommend that most folks keep around as building blocks for good and healthy cooking. Here’s the list I came up with:

On the shelf

The basics: Extra-virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, white-wine vinegar, black peppercorns and three types of salt: coarse, table and extra-fine sea salt for finishing.

Pasta: if I were to choose just two shapes, I’d stock spaghetti and orecchiette. I love the ‘little ear’ shape of the latter, which is perfect for scooping up mouthfuls of sauce. We really like Cipriani brand extra-thin egg pastas and Rustichella d’Abruzzo shaped pastas (particularly orecchiette for pasta with cheese and arugula and fregola sarda, for pasta with zucchini and pine nuts). My go-to grocery brand of pasta is DeCecco.

Grains: We cook risotto regularly, so arborio or carnaroli are always on hand. I also keep basmati rice on the shelf. Quinoa is also a staple; I use it to make hearty lunchtime salads like this quinoa salad with zucchini.

Boxed chicken broth. I prefer Swanson’s Organic. If I need broth in a pinch, I’ll use Rapunzel herb and sea salt vegetable stock cubes.

Canned tomatoes. Whole, peeled, no salt. Go with whole tomatoes; they’re better quality than diced canned tomatoes; if your recipe calls for diced, simply tear whole tomatoes into chunks with your fingers. I like Trader Joe’s, Hunt’s or Red Gold.

Canned beans. Either chickpeas or white beans (or both). If I need a quick appetizer, I’ll whirl some canned white beans (drained) together with lemon juice, olive oil and seasoning for a white-bean puree that’s perfect with pita chips.

In the fridge

Peanut butter: natural, fresh-ground and salt-free. Oh, and homemade jam.

A jar of homemade preserved lemons to give a bright, salty flavor to marinades and international dishes like Moroccan chicken.

Greek yogurt: I love Fage Total 0%. Rich, creamy, delicious, versatile. Use Greek yogurt in place of sour cream, or try the perfect afternoon snack: homemade yogurt-fruit cups.

Eggs: from the farmers’ market, the freshest I can find. If I’m stumped for dinner, I’ll whip up an egg and vegetable frittata with whatever leftover veggies I have on hand.

Dijon mustard: An essential ingredient in my house favorite, super-simple vinaigrette dressing.

Limes and lemons: For cocktails, for squeezing over cooked vegetables, for flavoring a glass of sparkling water.

Parmesan cheese: We’ll buy a half-pound chunk at a time and grate it fresh as we need it. Lasts for weeks.

Sparkling water. La Croix raspberry-cranberry sparkling water, with no artificial flavors, no sugar and no calories, is my soda.

In the freezer

Homemade chicken stock: Here’s how to make your own.

Summer fruits: Blueberries, blackberries, raspberries … to top my morning bowl of cereal all winter long. I also freeze whole summer tomatoes.

Pita bread: Brush a pita with olive oil, sprinkle it with seasoned salt and run under the broiler until toasty brown. Great with hummus or homemade tabbouleh for a wonderful snack or appetizer.

Ice cream: I really love Trader Joe’s vanilla ice cream. It’s smooth and natural-tasting.

Cooked chicken: Grilled, roasted or boiled and shredded. I keep leftover cooked chicken in zip-top freezer bags so I can quickly thaw some and add to a lunch-able salad like this fabulous wild rice salad with chicken.

So, what’s on your list of kitchen essentials? Share in the comments below!

Posted in Around the house, Better than store-bought, House favorites, Pantry, Recipes | Tagged , , | 4 Comments

Refreshing mint-lime tea.

The unusually warm spring we’ve had here in the Midwest has sparked the mint in my herb garden into prolific growth. First, the plant was bright-green and bushy, but it’s now grown a bit leggy. I figured I need to pinch a bunch of the stems back to promote more compact growth … but what to do with all that mint? Ahhh, yes: mint tea. [To be precise, this is a tisane, or herb infusion.] With a spritz of fresh lime juice and a bit of local honey, this is as refreshing as it is delicious.

mint and lime tea
(makes 6 cups)

12 sprigs of fresh mint, about 4-5 inches long
6 cups of water
juice of 1 lime
2 Tbsp. honey or to taste

In a pitcher, place the mint sprigs and mash them around with a wooden spoon to bruise the leaves and release flavor. Bring water just to the boil; pour over mint and let the mixture cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Strain the tea, discard the mint and add lime juice and honey or agave nectar to taste.

Posted in Cocktails & drinks, Gardening, Recipes | Tagged , , , | Leave a comment

Beautiful vegetable frittata.

File under: Breakfast for dinner.

Cross reference to: Good uses for leftover cooked vegetables. And also: Meatless Monday.

Here’s a simple cooking technique that should be part of your repertoire: the frittata. You get practically unlimited mileage out of the frittata—breakfast, brunch, dinner, even lunch the next day. Place a wedge of this eggy wonder between two slices of toast, and you have a healthy and satisfying meal on the go.

Forget what you may have heard about frittata being a tricky thing, what with flipping it in the pan and all. Too, it’s far more interesting than a plain ol’ omelet. Master this, and you can make it completely your own by adding whatever cooked vegetables you prefer—zucchini, potato and onion, roasted red pepper, steamed broccoli or asparagus, sautéed greens. Cook the vegetables first, or use leftovers. Whisk some eggs (I like Alice Waters’ technique of adding a bit of olive oil to the eggs). Maybe add a nip of cheese if you’d like:  crumbled feta or goat cheese mixed in, or freshly grated Parmesan on top. Cut the frittata into 4 wedges and serve over a bed of lightly dressed salad greens, or a nice pool of warmed tomato sauce.

Easy. Delicious. Fast. Promise.

easy vegetable frittata
(serves 4)

6 large eggs
2 tsp. plus 1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 to 2 cups cooked vegetables of your choice
1/4 cup fresh parsley leaves (optional)
2 oz. crumbled feta or goat cheese (optional)
salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat broiler. In a bowl, whisk together eggs, 2 tsp. olive oil, 1/2 tsp. salt and freshly ground pepper. Stir in cooked vegetables and parsley and cheese (if using). Over medium-high heat, warm an ovenproof cast-iron or nonstick skillet; the pan is warm enough when a bit of water dripped into the pan sizzles and evaporates. Pour in 1 Tbsp. olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Lower the heat to medium and quickly pour the egg-vegetable mixture into the pan; as the egg begins to set, use a silicone spatula or wooden spoon to gently lift up the edges of the frittata so that the uncooked egg runs underneath. Cover the pan and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until the eggs are mostly set but still a bit liquid on top. Transfer pan from stovetop to broiler, and broil for about 3 minutes until the eggs become puffy and browned on top. Cut the frittata into 4 wedges and serve.

(Note: In the photo below, I used a combination of leftover grilled blue potatoes with garlic, and grilled broccoli.)

Posted in Breakfast/brunch, Dinner, Meatless Monday, Recipes | Tagged , , , , , | 6 Comments

Easy grilled flatbread.

I’ll confess: I like a little bread with dinner. I know: Bread can really wreck your diet if you’re watching calorie intake. It’s just that I’m so fond of it.

I often pick up a hearty, seedy loaf from Blue Oven Bakery during our Saturday market trips, but if I find myself bread-less during the week, I’ll sometimes drizzle a whole-wheat pita or a piece of naan bread with a smidge of olive oil, give it a pinch of sea salt and heat it under the broiler. Another house favorite, especially during grilling weather, is this simple grilled flatbread. It comes together in about half an hour, it’s very easy to make with ingredients you have on hand (providing you have a packet of yeast in the pantry, which I encourage, even if you’re not much of a bread baker) and it’s quite delicious. It’s also quite flexible: You can finish the flatbread with just a pinch of coarse sea salt, or add fresh thyme or rosemary, or a sprinkling of freshly grated Parmesan. This flatbread satisfies my wheaty, yeasty craving.

easy grilled flatbread
(makes 4)

1/2 teaspoon yeast (either rapid-rise or regular)
pinch of sugar
1/2 cup very warm water
1 Tbsp. olive oil, plus more for brushing dough
1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour (use part whole-wheat flour if you’d like)
3/4 tsp. coarse salt, plus more for sprinkling

About 30 minutes before serving, make the dough; preheat your grill on medium about 15 minutes before serving.

In the bowl of a stand mixer, use a fork to whisk together warm water, yeast and pinch of sugar (this feeds the yeast); let sit for several minutes until the mixture begins to bubble and foam. Add flour and begin mixing on low speed to combine; add olive oil and then salt. Knead the dough on medium-high speed for about 2 minutes until it’s smooth and stretchy. It should feel tacky, like a Post-it note, but not all stickygooey on your fingers. (Alternately, use a wooden spoon to stir the dough together in a mixing bowl and finish the kneading with your hands.)

Remove dough from the bowl and drizzle in a bit of olive oil; return dough to bowl and turn to coat with oil. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and put in a warm place to rise until doubled in size, about 30 minutes. (A sunny spot in your kitchen works, or you can turn on your oven light—but not the oven itself—and place the bowl in there.) Divide the dough into 4 pieces; on a lightly floured surface, roll each into a roundish shape about 8 inches in diameter. Brush both sides of each round lightly with olive oil.

Gently transfer the rounds to the heated grill (probably 2 at a time will fit), close the lid and cook for 4 to 5 minutes until the flatbread is nicely puffed and golden, with toasty grill marks. Turn and continue cooking for another 4 to 5 minutes. Remove from grill, finish with salt, herbs or seasonings and serve immediately. (Note: For extra-crispy flatbreads, make them in advance and then re-warm them on the grill before serving.)

related recipes

homemade focaccia
simple homemade crackers 

Posted in Grilling, Recipes, Sides | Tagged , , , | 3 Comments

Of bread and family.

I took some time this week to drive my mom and grandmother from Indianapolis to Chicago, to have lunch at my brother’s bakery. Bill and his partner Terry opened Baker & Nosh in February, and they’ve been enjoying fantastic reviews in the Chicago media and great success. It’s the perfect neighborhood hang-out: better-than-great coffee (they serve La Colombe!), fantastic food and a wonderful vibe.

It was quite a long drive to make for lunch, but Bill fed us well: chicken broth with a fat homemade matzo ball, deliciously creamy mushroom soup. The best blueberry muffins you’ll ever eat: not too sweet, perfectly sized, amply studded with blues. A wonderfully moist apricot pound cake. Sandwiches made with quality ingredients stacked on freshly baked, pillowy ciabatta. [Ever have a sandwich on artisanal bread that's so chewy your jaw dislocates? Not this bread, no sir.] Crispety-chewy flatbreads with red pepper and feta. All of it simple, flavorful and incredibly well-made. [And I say this as a food writer, not as an admiring sister. Well, maybe as both ...]

If you’re in Chicago and find yourself in the Uptown neighborhood, drop in, eat, drink and hang out.

 


Posted in Baking, Eating local, Sandwiches, Travel | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments